People write college theses on compost, but don’t let that worry you—all the science you need to know is in the next pages.
Sunday, January 29, 2012
The Role of Composting
As it will be described in other chapters, composting has been used for many years
throughout the world in the stabilization of organic residues. Initially, in the management
of municipal solid waste (MSW), the emphasis was on composting the organic fraction
of MSW; sewage sludge (biosolids) was regarded principally as a source of nitrogen and
phosphorous, and to a lesser extent of potassium for enriching the organic matter and
thus promoting the compost process (Rodale, 1943; Truman, 1949; Golueke, 1950, 1953,
1972, 1977).
throughout the world in the stabilization of organic residues. Initially, in the management
of municipal solid waste (MSW), the emphasis was on composting the organic fraction
of MSW; sewage sludge (biosolids) was regarded principally as a source of nitrogen and
phosphorous, and to a lesser extent of potassium for enriching the organic matter and
thus promoting the compost process (Rodale, 1943; Truman, 1949; Golueke, 1950, 1953,
1972, 1977).
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Know your soil
The soil in our gardens is a mixture of
mineral particles derived from rock
weathering over millennia, air, water,
decomposed organic matter and living
organisms. Though all soils are based on the
same basic ingredients, they vary widely
because of differences in the way the
ingredients are combined.
Gardening Without Irrigation VII (Increasing Soil Fertility Saves Water)
Increasing Soil Fertility Saves Water
Does crop growth equal water use? Most people would say this statement seems likely to be true.
Actually, faster−growing crops use much less soil moisture than slower−growing ones. As early as 1882 it was determined that less water is required to produce a pound of plant material when soil is fertilized than when it is not fertilized. One experiment required 1,100 pounds of water to grow 1 pound of dry matter on infertile soil, but only 575 pounds of water to produce a pound of dry matter on rich land. Perhaps the single most important thing a water−wise gardener can do is to increase the fertility of the soil, especially the subsoil.
Does crop growth equal water use? Most people would say this statement seems likely to be true.
Actually, faster−growing crops use much less soil moisture than slower−growing ones. As early as 1882 it was determined that less water is required to produce a pound of plant material when soil is fertilized than when it is not fertilized. One experiment required 1,100 pounds of water to grow 1 pound of dry matter on infertile soil, but only 575 pounds of water to produce a pound of dry matter on rich land. Perhaps the single most important thing a water−wise gardener can do is to increase the fertility of the soil, especially the subsoil.
Gardening Without Irrigation VI (Fertilizing, Fertigating and Foliar Spraying)
Fertilizing, Fertigating and Foliar Spraying
In our heavily leached region almost no soil is naturally rich, while fertilizers, manures, and potent compostsmainly improve the topsoil. But the water−wise gardener must get nutrition down deep, where the soil stays damp through the summer.
In our heavily leached region almost no soil is naturally rich, while fertilizers, manures, and potent compostsmainly improve the topsoil. But the water−wise gardener must get nutrition down deep, where the soil stays damp through the summer.
Gardening Without Irrigation V (Windbreaks)
Windbreaks
Plants transpire more moisture when the sun shines, when temperatures are high, and when the wind blows; it is just like drying laundry. Windbreaks also help the garden grow in winter by increasing temperature. Many other garden books discuss windbreaks, and I conclude that I have a better use for the small amount of words my publisher allows me than to repeat this data; Binda Colebrook's [i]Winter Gardening in the Maritime Northwest[i] (Sasquatch Books, 1989) is especially good on this topic.
Plants transpire more moisture when the sun shines, when temperatures are high, and when the wind blows; it is just like drying laundry. Windbreaks also help the garden grow in winter by increasing temperature. Many other garden books discuss windbreaks, and I conclude that I have a better use for the small amount of words my publisher allows me than to repeat this data; Binda Colebrook's [i]Winter Gardening in the Maritime Northwest[i] (Sasquatch Books, 1989) is especially good on this topic.
Gardening Without Irrigation IV (Mulching)
Mulching
Gardening under a permanent thick mulch of crude organic matter is recommended by Ruth Stout (see the listing for her book in More Reading) and her disciples as a surefire way to drought−proof gardens while eliminating virtually any need for tillage, weeding, and fertilizing. I have attempted the method in both Southern California and western Oregon with disastrous results in both locations. What follows in this section is addressed to gardeners who have already read glowing reports about mulching.
Gardening under a permanent thick mulch of crude organic matter is recommended by Ruth Stout (see the listing for her book in More Reading) and her disciples as a surefire way to drought−proof gardens while eliminating virtually any need for tillage, weeding, and fertilizing. I have attempted the method in both Southern California and western Oregon with disastrous results in both locations. What follows in this section is addressed to gardeners who have already read glowing reports about mulching.
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